You know how Eskimos have hundreds of words for snow? I think they learned most of them from Yoopers.
I started writing this from the backseat of a station wagon driving through a near-whiteout blizzard. Just another day in the U.P.
My driver and guide is a incredibly chatty local 64-year-old woman named Sandy. She has one hand on the wheel and she keeps turning around, pointing out the windows and lecturing me and my fellow passengers on local lore.
This is what I wanted to say:
CAN YOU PLEASE CONCENTRATE ON KEEPING US ALIVE?!?
Also, the Beach Boys are playing on the radio right after they announce a winter storm warning with up to 18 inches of “considerable blowing snow.” Sandy is completely unfazed.
We’re on our way back to do some more snowshoeing. I bought another set of Patagonia base layers and Black Diamond gaiters at the local Downwind Sports for this occasion. I’m going to need it.
Yesterday it was a balmy 32 degrees and I went cross country skiing and snowshoeing in the Valley Spur trails in the Hiawatha National Forest near Munising. Those are the best trails I’ve ever been on. Well marked, well groomed, very extensive. I went out for hours and barely scratched the surface.

Trails of Valley Spur

Noquemanon Trails
Today we started with snowshoeing through the Noquemanon trails system in Marquette, Michigan. It’s a peaceful woods with only a few sets of tracks. We saw only two other fellow hikers and three dogs.
Then we headed toward what Sandy calls “the end of the world.”
We arrive at a trail called Wetmore Landing and snowshoe a short hike to the shore of Lake Superior. The wind is whipping. Snow is blasting. Waves are crashing over hills of ice.
Now I know what she means by the end of the world.
“I guess I took you to the right place, eh?” Sandy says.
Eh! I mean, Yes!
So that was awesome.
Now onto beer.
I don’t generally drink craft beer from a can. But in the U.P., it seems fitting. It happened last night at the Brownstone Inn in AuTrain, Michigan. (Thanks to E. Nelson for his U.P. beer suggestions in the comments.)
I was introduced to the local Keweenaw Brewing, which makes Red Jacket Amber Ale. There’s an illustration of a miner on the can, which is also a first that I’ve seen. I can’t say the beer was all that memorable outside of the packaging, but it went well with the mild whitefish fresh from Lake Superior.
They also had Founders, which is not local in the strictest sense — it’s made by the “trolls,” U.P. parlance for downstate Michigan residents who live under the Mackinac bridge. Founders makes an excellent Scotch Ale with Dirty Bastard.
Finally, I was also impressed with the New Holland Sun Dog Amber Ale I ordered from the Sweet Water Cafe in Marquette, Michigan. It went well with the huevos rancheros made with local and organic ingredients.